Paradise in Pinnacles

 April 26-27, 2023

Can you imagine us swimming in an outdoor pool in 30C heat while watching condors, the rarest and most endangered birds in North America soar above us? With 2 species of oak (Blue & Coastal...) and many colours of wildflowers-- red paintbrush, white and purple lupines, white wild clematis climbing up everywhere and even the rare Mariposa lily? Paradise in deed for all of us at Pinnacles National Park...at least for 24hrs. Pinnacles was meant to be a day trip to climb through the caves there and then to head on. However, the continued closure of Highway 1 from the storms last winter and the closure of our campground in the Redwoods of Big Sur, left us a few weeks ago scrambling for a few nights. Pinnacles had 1 site for 1 night, so we booked it.

When we drove into the campsite dusk was falling. It was right then that we spotted our first 3 condors soaring above us. As we were tucking the kids into our tent we had 3-4 raccoons come round and scope us out. For Corwyn they were exciting as he had never seen raccoons before. Next we heard "get get get"--Chris standing next to the car had failed to notice a raccoon hopping into the back until he heard it rustling the bags! Out it hopped and much securing of food and gear was made before bed. Then 2 great horned owls kept us company all night with their calls.  A very rich day.

Mariposa lilies 

acorn woodpecker holes filled with acorns.  My bird of the trip so far. 

we have learnt to identify poison oak very well! 

The morning brought new wonders--2 more condors on trees up in the hills, rabbits, ground squirrels & scrub jays (brilliant blue jays unlike our darker Steller's jays). After packing up we did a self-guided trail up to some bat caves (we didn't see the bats but they were protected in an upper cave as they are the rare Long-eared Myotics) but my plant and bird apps were kept busy. My favourite new birds (other than the scrub jays and of course the condors!) was the trill of the canyon wren. Listen to it if you can. After that hike, Cor & Chris hung out in the shade while Vera & I climbed a bit into the hills for some gorgeous views of the pinnacles and condor sitings-- 2 more at closer range where we could see them well with binoculars on a boulder who then took to the skies. There were many other flower and bird enthusiasts along the trail so we were treated to finding the mariposa lilies.  

Hot and sweaty, we returned to the campsite where we had an amazing couple of hours under the shade of huge oaks, a 1+hr swim in the pool followed by hot showers where soap, shampoo and body wash were provided (Yosemite didn't even provide hand soap...). It felt like an afternoon at a resort.  We would have stayed longer if we could have but as we're approaching the weekend, sites are booking up and we're not that far from the San Francisco Bay area.

we're in morro bay today with sea otters and peregrine..

Yes! to Yosemite

 April 23-26, 2023

As hoped and expected, the minute we left Oregon the weather shifted. What had been a rainy and snowy and cold drive so far shifted as we left Klamath Falls (at 0C). By the time we stopped in Redding for a fun ride along the Sacramento River shadowed in Green and growing oak meadows to an Earth Day event it was 30C. We went straight from heat to air conditioning with nothing in between. But overall a welcome shift.

We still had a long way to drive to get to Yosemite National Park and this was the 5th day of driving no less than 3hrs and up to 6. I was beginning to doubt whether it was worth driving up and over another range and into the Sierra Nevadas just to see some big trees and some cliffs (we do have some nice ones of those at home) but mostly we were tired and looking for some car-less days which Chris promised us. Would Yosemite, live up to its hype? I doubted it and was personally worried that the crowds I had heard about would dampen the experience of the beauty of the place.

We descended into the valley in the late afternoon and although we were tired and stiff from 5+hrs in the car winding though oak forests and snowy hills we were immediately inspired by the dominating presence of the granite cliffs of Half Dome and El Capitan in the distance from a viewpoint. Down in the valley it was lush and green and snow free. But most spectacular was there were waterfalls everywhere--- first the wide and very white Bridal Veil and then Yosemite Falls (the 5th highest in the world?) but also smaller ones tumbling over the granite cliffs in every direction and up every smaller valley. It was already inspiring.

We checked into our campsite which was little more than a simple dirt spot in an open forest. However it had 2 great features. First, in every direction up close as the valley is so narrow, were granite beauties to look up and through. I did yoga in the morning and in each direction (including up into the tree canopy) it was gorgeous. Secondly, despite the FULL sign on the campsite, only half the sites were occupied. Although it is possible that there were many people who missed their bookings, I suspect that at some point after all the sites were made that campsite policy shifted and half the sites are not regularly used. Who knows. Either way, we had stumbled into a lucky weather window where everything was perfect (highs of 25C, lows of 8C) and before the promised floods (Yosemite received a 260% snowpack this winter so they expect closures at times this year from May-July).

Despite there being plenty of people, it was likely still quieter than the summer months. And it is also cyclists and hikers paradise. At some point perhaps in 2016(?) when the parks re-evaluated the valley experience both ecologically & for visitors, the park closed a few roads in the park to regular cars, opened bike and walk pathways from those and now provide a free shuttle to take others around. Which means that getting around to see the sites is best by bicycle (you can rent them there too and kid trailers). The valley is flat, narrow and gorgeous with amazing views in all directions and ~20 miles of these paved paths. We cycled from hike to hike from view to view. It was spectacular. On our second day we hiked to 2 waterfalls up a valley. The hike ended up being between 10-12km to a gorgeous viewpoint of Nevada Falls and involved stepping carefully over some narrow rocky ledges, sometimes with patches of snow and melting pools and puddles -- & 8 switchbacks (we counted). Were the kids grumbling the whole way? Nope, instead they excelled in it the trickier and more dangerous it got (they detest big wide easy paths but prefer the narrow and winding like the good little goats they are). Afterwards we had some well deserved hammock and rest time though Chris & Corwyn took off on the bikes back to see the video in the visitor center.

A great time and perhaps now the adventure we were seeking has really begun with shorter drives and a very different climate and landscape than we are used to ahead now for weeks and weeks and weeks. Should you go? I'd say its worth a stop but plan ahead--we had to book our campsite 6 months in advance. Off now to Pinnacles NP and the coast for a bit.

the big sequoia in mariposa Grove.  I attempted an upward panorama 

Heading South--leaving Spring for Winter--Summer tomorrow?

 We left a tepid 10-12C behind in Victoria with partly sunny skies. As we drove south at first it was mild and not too different. However, we could see dark clouds pass through and by the time we hit Olympia it was snaining (snow/raining). It would clear up from time to time only to return despite temperatures of 6C. Just north of Portland we got quite a shock. We came over a bridge to find the I-5 basically halted. It was snowing so hard and accumulating fast! Everyone ground to a near halt as visibility was terrible and the road was slushing and slippery. 10 minutes later and we were in sun again and temperatures climbed slowly to our high of 11C by the time we reached Portland.  

Look how big Oregon Grape grows in Oregon! Champoeg State Park. 

We camped in a beautiful oak forest south of Portland (Champoeg (pronounced Shampooey) where apparently a bunch of men (HBC, French fur traders and American settlers) had stood outside a barn and decided they needed government--prior to being a state--HBC'ers voted against). 

Then we drove up and over through the mountains (and into snowy driving conditions again) to our pitstop near Bend to climb through a lava tunnel/cave! Kids thought it was pretty cool and so weird--not a tourist destination but a small opening in the middle of the ground with a staircase amongst the sagebrush. A good thing to do on a snowy/rainy day. Then on to Klamath Falls.

Today we ventured one more day into the snow. Crater Lake has reopened to the top so we went up there and did some snowshoeing and sledding. We didn't go far and the kids don't know what the lake is like as it was too foggy but a fun snowy wet time was had. I'm personally done with rain and snow....we're trying really to get away from it. We already had to do laundry... the kids have got so muddy and wet! It looks like tomorrow (and thereafter?) promises to be warmer than 10C (maybe like 25?C) as we coast towards Sacremento (bye bye Oregon) and in then into Yosemite. Fingers crossed!

The drifts to Crater lake were at least double this but I didn't get a photo. 

Day 1! Heart and car full

We're off!  Loading onto the Coho, car is stuffed but we think we've got it all.  Corwyn had a milestone yesterday. First lost tooth! Tooth ferry didn't get the memo about going to the USA. Heart full.  Car full.  Fingers crossed! 

How a 3 month road trip with 2 young kids, & 1 tent came to be

The story, likely not too different from many embarking on journeys these days, had its roots in the pandemic. While I, along with likely all of you in 2020, was gripped in a kind of heavy, dread-filled grind where I tried to live in the moment by smelling the flowers and being kind to others, Chris had other ways of coping. As soon as the libraries reopened he took out many books. He started planning our escape. All the travel books were for some reason completely available...even the most recent copies! 😜I don't give myself any credit for this trip, other than agreeing to it. I am also a planner but since the pandemic and perhaps also since having kids I have been unable to plan beyond a few months to a year. So kudos for him for being able to escape in his mind and plan something that could actually happen.

Why did the SW USA get chosen?? Chris might have to comment and explain how he came to the conclusion that it was the SW USA that we were heading off too at some unknown time. However, from my perspective it came down to a few factors:

1. Realistic: The goal was to create a trip that could be done in the nearish future. At the time the idea of flying anywhere seemed impossible and not likely to happen soon. And due to carbon emissions, I'm not keen to fly. The idea of planning a trip that stayed in North America seemed like a good options (we just had to wait for the USA/Canada border to open --19 months of waiting).
2. Kid-Friendly: We now have 2 kids, 5 & 8. Traveling costs more. Also, I'm not sure my kids are ready for us to take them and show them where we lived in Africa or India or ….or at least I'm not ready to deal with that. Things will be different for them, but not that different. Adjusting to life on the road in a tent in different climates will be enough change for our 5 year old!
3. Somewhere we both have wanted to go: Particularly Arizona, Utah & New Mexico have been on our wish list for awhile but given that it is really hot in the summer when we get our break and Chris being away now every Spring break, the trip idea has been shelved for ~10 years.
4. Connected to nature: Tenting is definitely cost-effective but it has been how we've always traveled as a couple. In the year we got married, we spent 1/3 of our nights that year in a tent. There is something about being on the land to connect to a new place--the stars, the weather, the other species that is soul-healing and wonderful. I never get enough of that in the regular year so why wouldn't we do it this time...(We did concede that we are older though and buy a MUCH larger and comfier mattress for this---never slept on so fingers cross) (and also, we do have a few time shares and some hotel nights booked---its not 100% tenting, just mostly).

Whatever the initial motivation, Chris began this process of planning almost 3 years ago and dug into the planning, honestly, pretty obsessively for about 2 years until the boarders opened. He's got 10 map versions, 'next time' itineraries and enough plans on this journey to fill every day and night if the kids and I were to allow it. Once the border did reopen, we were finally able to think about what we actually needed to do to make it happen. And we did! We got leave from our jobs for 2.5 months, passports, a new PHEV, a bike rack, plans for the house, etc. And we're leaving! Count down is on....13 days till departure. Here we go!

Check out our route!